It is surely in the quiet and relaxing city of Aswan that the Nile is at its most beautiful. The river flows through an amber desert, past granite rocks and round emerald islands smothered in palm groves and tropical plants. This peaceful scene, however, was disturbed last week by archaeologists shouting and yelling at one another from their moored yacht while they carried out the delicate task of hoisting a decorative object from the bed of the river where it had lain for more than 2,500 years.
I liked Aswan. It's got a bit of the touristy atmosphere -- and enough western amenities because of it to make it comfortable -- but not too much, so you can just sorta of hang out and go see stuff without being constantly harassed to buy things. The Fayum is rather like that, too. Lots of nice local restaurants, too. Had a lovely dinner right on the water one evening.